Every Picture Tells a Story

Not as much has happened as I'd like since my September post.  Part of the problem was getting my fancy/schmancy Global West trailing arms (as recommended to me by Brett Klynn, more on this subject later) back from DaveHerlinger (Corvette Repair in Mountain View).  It took a few months, and without the trailing arms I couldn't roll the chassis around to do other things like install the motor.  He does good work however, as after the rebuild, front and rear, the rotor runout on all four wheels is between 0.002" to 0.003".  All new bearings and emergency brake components too.  The other work Dave did was to install longer wheel studs on all the hubs, as the stock studs with the new wheels weren't long enough to fully engage the lug nut.  None of this stuff is ever as straightforward as one would think.  The studs are knurled and have a specific hole size required to seat.  It turns out that no drill exists of the required size.  Further you can't just put the hub into a drill press and drill it out beacause the process is not self-centering.  Without a jig the holes can move around and then the lug nuts get mislocated.  Anyway, that is all past and I finally got to a rolling chassis.  As with pulling the motor, with the MaxJax, putting it back in is a one man operation.  However   ......

.... preparatory to dropping in the engine, the clutch and transmission had to be bolted up.  This presented its own set of issues.  Biggest one is that the flywheel sits closer to the block.  This moves the pressure plate forward and adversely changes the angle on the clutch fork.  For a while I was not sure what to do but a little research revealed that there are longer throwout bearings.  I found one on e-bay from McLeod that fits and installed it.  I also bought a spare I thought.  Just went out to the garage to get the part # and discovered that they sent me a Ford throwout bearing!!!!!  This is just freaking typical of why it has taken so long.  Now I have to deal with that......

 OK, I'm back - part # is 160322829131.  McLeod actually called back almost immediately and is sending out a UPS call sheet for the wrong part.  Basically what this longer throwout does is compensates for the difference between the face of the flywheel and the face of the bellhousing between the two motors.  Had to bolt and unbolt both a few times to figure out what was right.

The other necessary task to get the motor where it belongs is engine mount adapters and another adapter from VetteWorks to mount the so-called "Z-Bar" which connects the clutch pedal pushrod to the clutch/pressure plate pushrod.  Made some changes there too.   A quick look

 A pair of heim joints and an adjustable rod should make this  a step above the sloppy factory linkage.  Note we no longer need the anti-rattle springs either.

Here is the motor in place

 

Everything is in place and more or less fits.  The headers clear the new Borgeson box with over 1/2" of clearance.  Legend has it that the Corvette oil pan doesn't fit the stock steering. But since the Borgeson let me eliminate the hydraulic RAM, it dropped in just fine.  Also managed to get the stock alternator mounted which means the wiring for the charging system doesn't need to change.

The Vetteworks brackets worked as advertised in that I was able to bolt the transmission into the stock holes in the frame.  I understand that the cylinder heads are further back in the block and they may be closer to the firewall.  That will have to wait till I put the body on.

The differential felt like it was about to self-destruct when I pulled the car off the road and so I had Dave rebuild that as well.  Turns out it was on its last runs, the ring gear bolts were scraping the case.  I now have new Richmond 3:36 gears.  Discovered while everything was laying around that I have an M20 wide ratio Muncie.  Shouldn't hurt autocrossing at all and I will have a longer first gear.  As I remember I was rev-limiting out at 6400 somewhere near 57 MPH.  I expect the car will still smoke the tires anytime I want.  Changing from the 3:55 that was in there will also give me a lower cruising RPM.  Seemed like freeway driving was around 3800 or so, this will drop it down to something more tolerable..


And of course with everything lying around loose, it was a good time to get the driveshafts rebuilt with new Spicer universals.  That's not cheap either.  Here's a look at the backend.

 

 This picture shows the VBP control arms, which have greased fittings.  That was always a pain.  I found a set at Mid-America that doesn't need fittings and installed them.  Also discovered that the strut support bracket was cracked.  Rather than weld it, got a new one.  I'm sure there's lots more stress at that point with these solid strut rods and super sticky wide tires.  The camber adjusting bolts have been replaced by the square plates with a only few adjustment settings.  Cad plated in the picture.  The inner placement of the bolts is up as high as I could get it to maximize camber change in turns.

It is a pleasure to be bolting up clean parts.  It's difficult to bolt on something rusty now, generally everything gets derusted and painted.

Now for the things that really don't fit.

Z-Bar-  Here is another view and what's different from stock is that the inner control arm had its weld Dremeled out and was then moved towards the block.

The open exhaust flange shows where the inlet pipe has to go.  The stock z-bar was pretty much in the way.  BTW note the spline on the steering box and the Pitman arm and nut.  A lot of spline is showing.  Looking above the bar you can also see the manifold clearance.  There's actually more available becasue the manifold has a sheet metal heat sheild which I suppose could be removed if needed.

Trailing Arms - These are offset tubular arms from Global West.  Thanks, I guess, Brett.  They have a spherical joint where they mount to the frame and factory holes for the stock anti-sway bar.  Everything went together normally until it came time to put in the emergency brake cable.  Here's what I found.

The bolt is just a place holder to show where the emergency brake cable is supposed to go.  It certainly won't go through this hole.

First I discovered that the hole the manufacturer provided was too small.  Enlarging it and attempting to fit it to the bracket where the bolt is in the picture, it can't be made to seat.  At this point I decided, well I'll read the instructions.  Guess what, where it comes to describe how the e-brake cable is installed, there are no instructions.  Calling Global West was no help, just got nothing.  I posted these pictures on CorvetteForum and still have nothing substantial other than another guy who has yet to attempt installation.  Next step, enlarge the hole.

Not very neat but at least the cable appears to fit.  This is the wrong clip, it was just conveniently lying around.

This is not the end of the story.  Given the indication that the cable IS supposed to go through the hole ("you are on the right track" the rep said????), I proceeded to mount it to the frame or at least place it where it goes.  That actually takes a bit of muscle to bend it into place and the result is

This S-Curve is quite a bit more severe than the stock route which trails under the arm and bends more gradually.  I don't yet know how well this is going to works (or WTF they were thinking at GW)

I had hoped to get some constructive feedback from at least CorvetteForum but that has not happened yet.  Surely there is someone who's worked through this??

Accessories - Here's a good look at the front of the motor.

One serpentine belt takes care of everything.  I got the belt length correct on the first try

See the problem?  Look at the thermostat inlet housing.

The waterpump inlet is aimed at the upper right control arm.  No room for a hose.  And the heater core inlet and outlet plumbing is too close to the control arm.  With a little engine torque, they're going to hit.  The former has been fixed with an inlet that comes straight in.  To fix the latter I am going to have to remove the pump, thread the holes to NPT (they appear to be the right size, 3/4" and 5/8"), and install 45 degree fittings.  Waiting for a package to arrive from Summit.  Other people have done this so I am hopeful.  These pumps are quite expensive!  Look again at the front of the motor!  This will have to wait for a future post.

Temperature Gauge - Last subject is the temperature gauge.  Knowing that my stock gauge is going to be wrong, I sent out my instrument cluster and the "sending unit" to Red Line Gauge.  John there sent me back my original sending unit and a new one matched to the movement he installed in the cluster.  And a bunch of brass fittings, none of which fit my motor.  About $90 for that so no big expense but one more problem not quite right.  The GM unit is a two-wire sensor but it is basically the same as the one wire original in that it is simply a temperature sensitive resistance, and the second wire is a better ground than through the engine and chassis.  Time to measure and plot some data.

Multi-meter set to measure resistance and has a handy thermocouple, plus a hot water supply

I guessed that this would be a semi-log function.  X-axis is temperature and the Y-axis is resistance.

The bottom blue and red plots are the GM and aftermarket senders.  The curves are not close enough.  While I could match the aftermarket with a parallel resistance at (say) 200 degrees, everything else would be way wrong (the curved line).  And since the GM sensor has higher resistance I would need to add a negative varying resistance in series to match the aftermarket.  Not feasible at all.  I despaired for a while and then voila inspiration.  There's a hole in each cylinder head for these senders.  If I put two senders in parallel, the result was pretty close and below the aftermarket.  See top curve.  A small (47 ohm) resistor in series with the two senders wired in parallel works great across the temperature range (ignore the 200 ohm comment in the graph)

Success

                                                good place to end the story for now

Geometry Lessons

Bump and Roll

I've been curious for a long time about bump steer and just how much has been built into these old cars.  Bump steer if you didn't know, is the change in front tire toe-in or toe-out as a function of the up and down (bounce and rebound) front A-arm angles.  In a straight line on a bumpy road, bump steer will cause the car to randomly wander.  Generally the designed in geometry increases toe-out as the A-arms lift in relation to the frame and this in turn increases understeer.  The outside wheel in a turn moves up in relation to the frame and being toed-out, doesn't turn as tight.  It "plows" or "pushes" a little.

Closely related to bump steer is roll steer which is toe-change as a function of vehicle roll angle.  If toe-out on one side doesn't equal toe-in on the other side there is a steering effect due to vehicle roll.  This is important in autocross because of the tight turns at speed.

Too much toe-out in whatever situation will cause a tire to scrub and that lessens its grip and increases drag.  In the simplest terms, the car is having to push the tire around a turn rather than having it roll in the intended direction.  Bump and roll are undesireable attributes in autocrossing and it is in my best interest to remove these effects to the extent that they are significant.  While I can find plenty of discussion on the internet on these topics I haven't found any measurements that give me a seat of the pants feel for the magnitude of change that's been designed in.

As of today, all of my front suspension components sans coil springs have been bolted in place and snugged up (but not yet torqued).  I've finally gotten completely away from the binding associated with rubber and poly bushings and the A-arms move up and down smoothly with minimal effort.  Further there is likely to be almost no compliance as a function of braking or accelerating.  Compliance in this case would be the A-arms twisting about in the bushings also unpredictably affecting toe.  This too unsettles the driver (me) because the car doesn't seem to be going exactly where I want it to.  Modern sports cars (e.g. the Z06) feel so much more precise and this is what I'm after in this rebuild.

On hand today are my el-cheapo chinese lasers, a stock tie-rod setup and a bump-steer kit from vette brakes and products.  I've set the toe to zero at full bounce using a machinist's square held against the spindle's axle shaft and the long iron bar I used previously laid along the frame.  Close enough for now.  This is a crude but known starting point for relative order of magnitude measurements.  Remember the pareto principle (also known as the 80-20 rule) states that, for many events, roughly 80% of the effects come from 20% of the causes.  So I figure I am about 80% right having done about 20% of the work.  The big money boys that charge for these alignments start with the exact dialed in caster camber and toe and everything bolted up with the car assembled and sitting on its wheels.  And some fancy bump steer gauges.

Here to put pictures to these words is what the A-arm looks like.

This photo is taken under the frame looking up at the left lower control arm.  The arm swivels about the axis defined by the aluminum crossmember labelled GLOBAL WEST which is bolted to the  frame.  The tie rod is to the left of the control arm.

Close up of one of the control arm delrin bushings.

The setup is once again to stick a laser onto the car and plot where it points.  Data collection is trivial at this point.  Lift up on the axle with one hand (no coil spring, remember and the bushings move freely) and reach over with the other hand and mark with a felt pen where the laser is pointing.  The box is 32" from the ball joint.  This gives me a little more than twice the actual toe, given that the tire radius is about 15".  Mark a few points until I've gone through the full range of travel and then do the other side.  The steering input does not move during this process so the steering angle is solely dependent on what the tie rod position is relative to the steering arm and control arm.

We are now on the left side of the car looking forward.  The laser is fastened with plumbers putty and you can just see the red light shining onto a large cardboard box near the crease on the left hand side.  These cardboard boxes seem to arrive daily.  This one had my SS brake and gas lines.  It is wider than the car.  Similar situation on the right hand side.

 Here are the results for no bump steer compensation plotted in black and the bump steer kit installed and plotted in red.

Left A-arm. 

Right A-arm

In motion on a track the wheels would never move over this range.  This is essentially rubber bumper to rubber bumper.  They would however move a few inches somewhere near the center of this range.  Since I don't have a complete car on the ground I don't really know where the middle is.  Even so, the slope of black uncompensated curve is about 1 inch of toe for 3 inches of up and down travel.  Half that distance would be a toe change of 1/2 inch per wheel.  A typical autocross specification for toe would be about 1/8 inch so this is a rather large unwanted steering input.  All in all I'm quite surprised in how bad the toe is in stock form. 

With the bump steer kit installed things look pretty good.  The RHS is almost perfect.  The LHS is pretty good.  What may be affecting that side is that I have not torqued down the Pittman arm on the steering box and it is sitting about 3/8 inch lower than what should be its final position.

The kit is pretty simple, a steel block bolted to the steering arm and shorter tie rod sleeves.  The block lowers the ball joint and moves it inward

Back View

Top View

This is kind of neat to play with by hand.  The laser is stuck near the lower ball joint pointing straight ahead as it is swept through the range of the arm.  Naively you would expect that the trace should describe a small arc on the cardboard box because that is what the control arm is doing.  That's not what really happens, as the up and down straight line trace proves.  It's doing what it is supposed to.  As the tie rod moves with the control arm it steers the spindle as well and the resultant of both motions is zero change in toe.  Truth be told I haven't completely visualized this.  But to complete the picture here is the set of constraints which the tie rod must meet.

Theory

Compare to the real thing!

The steering box interferes with the view on the LHS so this is the RHS.  The pivot for the upper control arm can just be seen over the fuel lines.  The upper ball joint is barely visible as well, in the gap between the fuel lines and the frame.  Also perspective intrudes here a bit.  Things don't quite line up with theory given Chevy's design decisions, but they are evidentally close enough to give excellent results.

Ackerman Steering

Drawing taken from Wiki Commons

Now for the "unintended consequences"!  Any change usually has some.  The bump steer kit modifies the steering geometry, specifically affecting something called Ackerman steering.  The front wheels of a car making a turn are on different circles.  The inside wheel is on a tighter radius than the outside wheel.  Ignoring effects such as tire slip angle, the wheels should roll freely along the inner and outer circles.

Approximation for Ackermann geometry

The geometry of the steering arms with Ackerman steering is nominally arranged so that the front wheels axes intersect on the axis of the rear wheels.  This can be determined pretty well with the steering set straight ahead.

Here is the top view of the left hand steering arm with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

The string tied to the lower ball joint and running across the castle nut on the bump steer kit is used to determine the actual location of the turn circle.  The string here intersects a similar string on the other side of the car.  This is where the the center of the turning circle is in relation to the four wheels.  It may or may not be at the rear axle.

The stock tie rod ball joint position in the steering arm is the left hex bolt.  The tie rod, castle nut, and old position are in a straight line. For small steering corrections we would expect no difference in handling. 

For tighter turns, things have changed.  The tie rod no longer forms a straight line with the stock ball joint position.  There is some loss in steering ratio for the outside tire.  It will seem to the driver that he has to turn the steering wheel more for tighter turns.   The inside tire meanwhile is trying to travel on a tighter circle. These pictures may help and it may also help to imagine the projection of the tie rod in relation to the stock position (left bolt).

Left wheel position in a right hand turn
This is the heavily loaded tire

Left wheel position in a left hand turn
Lightly loaded with increased toe out

This quote from the internet gives me some feeling for how to think about this aspect of steering geometry in autocross

• the reason for using ackerman in racing is different, and specifically it is different in autocross than in road course or other types of faster racing. this is because we use much larger steer angles than any road course car.
• because all the tires of a race car are operating at some slip angle in a corner, the specifics of ackerman geometry are less important than for parking maneuvers.
• what matters for us is that positive ackerman steering means the front toe out increases with steer angle. for less than large steer angles the amount of toe change is very small.
• so the question becomes: what effect does increased toe-out have on cornering?
• in a corner, there is a more heavily loaded outside tire and more lightly loaded inside tire. the outside tire also (should be) optimized in camber and will (should) be operating at optimal slip angle to generate maximum lateral force.
• this means that the inside tire is more lightly loaded, and operating at a higher slip angle than the outer tire.
• the key point is: this high slip angle inner tire creates significant drag.
• this drag creates a turning force, much like the stability system works on a modern car by applying the brake on just one side of the car and keeping you on the line the computer detects that you want from reading the steer angle.
• since the increased drag robs acceleration, positive ackerman may work best on over powered cars like the cobras.

I can't really take an overhead photo but this is the projection

Seems right!  Given all this theory I was interested in finding out what the Stingray designers did, and what I changed.  So I ran two strings as shown in the picture to the back of the car to see what the bump steer modifications did to the stock design, fully expecting that the kit had fixed one thing at the expense of another.  Not so.  Despite the fact that Ackerman steering was patented in 1817 for horseless carriages, there is little to no Ackerman compensation in the design (assuming I am doing all this right).  I was kind of surprised.  The stock Corvette suspension for my car and the C2/C3 series was taken from the Chevy production parts bin to save costs.    What money was available was used to move from a solid axle to an IRS, for which I am grateful.

The good news is that the bump steer moves the turning circle from way behind the car to somewhere under the gas tank.  While this is not quite at the rear wheels, if one considers the effect of the slip angles, it turns out that turning circle moves forward still more and I will have the outside tire grabbing more traction, as in the quote.

Slip angle is the additional angle req'd to exert a turning force.  The tires may be pointing in one direction but they are rolling in a slightly different direction.

And there's always torque induced oversteer (which we Corvette drivers love) to help get me around turns.  It's probably why these cars do as well as they do despite their primitive technology.  It's the American way, more is better!

I learned a bit in this exercise.  I guess I could have just bolted things on and hoped the handling improved but at least I have a better idea of what to expect and what to look at.  This took a bit of time but I'm still waiting on my differential.

Next up the rear supension.  New parts there too!

Parts is Parts

It's corny I know but sometimes this stupid memory gets into your head and won't let go.  In this case it's this guy from the Wendy's commercial

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTzLVIc-O5E

This post is about parts.  They're all over the house, under the pool table, in the closet,  and just piled up everywhere.

 

  

 

They all have their demands.  The old ones need to be cleaned and painted, the new ones, well, that's even worse.  We'll talk about that in another post.  I've been corresponding with a couple of brothers who also restored a 69.  It's just getting on the road and they started in ....   2002.  I'm beginning to see how that can be.

In thinking about this post a little I've decided the old parts are pretty boring.  Most everything is obvious, take a picture, put whatever in a bag with a little tag and hope you can figure it out later.

Sometimes there is a right and a left and it is important to keep them apart.  An example is my front wheel hubs which have bearing races that will need to have the original bearings restored to their proper hub.  I've got some case hardened metal letter and number stamps that I can hammer an identifier onto the part, just in case they get mixed up.  Get enough parts out of the bags and onto the bench and it becomes three card monte real quick..

Witness marks are also useful.  Scribe positions with a metal scribe where alignment matters.  Car doors and hoods are really annoying to align.  Rob suggested drilling a hole in my door hinges which I thought was a great idea.

What I've learned from past work is if parts are rusty and you only clean them up, they'll just rust faster the next time unless they are protected somehow.  They can be blasted (bead blasting is best), and either plated or painted.

Not having access to a bead blaster, I've been using my sandblaster.  Dave at Component Finishing where I got the frame done, gave me a bucket of the "sand" that he uses, and it is way different than the sand you get at the beach.  It is some kind of metallic byproduct, is black and gritty and agressive.  You do have to get the grease off of everything and then it works amazingly well.  Highly recommend that if you have any significant cleaning to do you get this special sand.  Sandblasting takes a lot of compressor however and the better stuff is a lot less work for the compressor.  The blowback is fierce, don't try this without a mask and gloves and long sleeves.

For corrosion protection, it's mostly been the POR-15 product, either silver or black.  The black is hard to tell from the powdercoat and both colors are really tough.  You can bend or hammer it.  I used a variant of the product for my rotors. That product has to be heated to 350 degrees for 10 minutes to cure.  Thought dangerous thoughts about shoving them in the oven when Betty was somewhere else and then realized I had a gas barbeque and could do the whole bake outside.

I've also been using a dilute mix of the black POR-15 to coat bolts and that is a pretty good imitation of the factory black oxide.  The latter has little or no corrosion resistance.  We'll see how the former works.  Nuts and washers are replacements, mostly stainless steel from ARP.  We are a long way from NCRS standards by now.

I could go the plating route but then I have to dump everything in a bucket, get somebody to bead blast it, get the bucket contents plated and then try to figure out where everything goes again.  Kinda destroys the work of putting things in bags.   Entropy at work here.

Told you this was boring.  Let me close with my three laws.

1. When you are done using something, put it back where you found it.
2. If you can't find what you are looking for, start cleaning up.  You will eventually come across it.
3. When you are done with it, put it back in the first place you thought to look for it.

Step 2) is the difficult step.  Stop looking, start cleaning.  Works for me!

Now that's better!

Most of the dusty dirty greasy is now behind me and the reassembly starts.  I still have a lot of fasteners and odds and ends in little baggies and brand new clean stuff coming in from the aftermarket suppliers.  The big news is that the frame and some assorted parts are back from Component Finishing in Santa Clara and they look great. Cost about $600 for this and the A-arms and a bunch of bolt on parts.

I spent some time at Component Finishing after sandblast and before powdercoat with a flashlight and tap hammer inspecting the welds and everything looked pretty solid.  Of course that's not definitive but nothing turned up and I felt confident enough to tell them to go ahead and powdercoat it.

Here's what the frame looks like in the trailer coming home

 

I want to add a comment here about how the body is attached.  There are four mounting points attached to the frame on each side, numbered 1-4 LH/RH.  In the picture you can see #3-LH upper right near the chain as a little square and further down the rail, the #2-LH near the wooden board.

Separately I dropped my differential off at Corvette Repair (it's making clunking noises when I go from reverse to forward) and I got a "really oughta" lecture from the owner about how I really oughta make sure my frame is straight.  Something about a guy up in Petaluma who ...

Well that's not going to happen but I did get to thinking I could do a pretty good survey myself for not too much money.  And I did have an accident or two with the car.  Plus there's been years of the engine trying to twist the frame at full throttle.  On the plus side these cars were supplied with some monster engines and are fairly rugged.

Here's the setup.  The #2 and #3 mounts on both rails form a rectangle.  If everything is OK, that rectangle is flat.  If the frame were "racked" in any way, then the edge from say #2 LH to #2 RH would not be parallel to #3 LH to #3 RH.   And the diagonal from #2 LH to #3 RH would not ever cross the one from #2 RH to #3 LH.

I went down to Fry's, the local electronics store and spent $4 total for two keychain lasers.  With a little plumber's putty I could fasten the laser to the frame and adjust it to beam to the opposite corner something like this

This laser is at the #3 RH mount and is shining on the #2 LH mount.  Another laser is on the #3 LH mount and is shining on the #2 RH mount

With the lasers in place, take a piece of paper and sweep it along the centerline of the frame to see where the photons crash into each other, figuratively speaking.  That looks like this:

These two beams are perfectly coincident and this portion of the platform is perfectly flat.

The next thing to try is to figure out where the #4 mounts are in relation to this rectangle.  The next picture shows a 4' level clamped across the frame and 7' piece of perfectly straight bar stock lying atop the #2 and #3 mounts. 

These dimensions just happen to workout that the level clamped across the frame sits about 1/16" above the bar stock sitting atop the body mounts

The difference in thespace between the level on the LH vs. the RH is about 1/16" inch.  Hardly enough to worry about.  The good news is that the frame looks about perfect.

A Tale of Dusty, Dirty ...

... and Greasy.  This blog will have to start in the middle of things because, well, that's when I decided to start blogging.  Some of you may recognize YACC from another context, but here it means "Yet Another Corvette Conversion"!  I've been beating up on the car for quite a while now, doing pretty well autocrossing, but starting to worry about what's going on under the hood and elsewhere.  My friend Rob is engaged in the same undertaking and his experience suggests that some important parts may be breaking.  Especially the frame and that's exceptionally worrisome.   Further the car has been sitting out in the weather (we do have some in California) accumulating rust corrosion and spiders everywhere.

Additionally there is a lot of new tech out there.   All in all time to pull it apart and put it back together better.  Think "resto-rod"!

Since every new project requires a cool new tool I decided to make life easier and bought a lift.  And that necessitated a makeover in the garage to raise the roof a tad.  Reroute compressed air, have the garage door lift a bit higher and most importantly reinforce the concrete floor.  Since we have so far simply travelled down the conventional path of unbolting and bagging stuff I don't really have anything different to add to that activity.  Let me instead show what the lift is good for.

Pull the body off

The body-lift entailed putting a 4x4 underneath the rocker panel and for good measure attaching a vertical 4x4 to the frame hinges.  With the lift positioned under these outriggers everything separated cleanly

Here's what the body looks like off on a dolly.  I elected to remove the doors, headlights and as much other weight as I could to minimize stress on the body, especially the front clip.  In a previous accident the entire front clip was replaced so I took no chances that the work done was not as strong as the factory's.

There are a couple of styles of dolly.  Mine is just a perimeter frame bed with verticals at each of the body mount points.  The service manual has a dimensioned drawing and, following that drawing I had no real issues

Pull the engine

  Here I've pulled the yellow arms off and bridged the two posts with a big wooden beam.  This gets the engine high enough to seperate it from the chassis.  Next roll that out and drop the engine onto a four wheel dolly

Chassis Work

This is looking at the aft end.  The front end is pretty much naked and I was a little worried about mass imbalance as things got lighter so I weighted the front with a bunch of old rotors.  Incidentally these are also handy as bench clamps for woodworking

  I can raise and lower the frame and to whatever position is most comfortable.

There is a lot of internet discussion on this particular lift that I found before I bought and installed it (costs about $2K) and I posted  some of my thoughts here

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35763&page=15

I'm pretty happy with this toy.  Finally here's what the frame looks like prior to sending it out to be sandblasted and powdercoated.